BY HAMAH HOSEN-
When one first sees the word ‘Fashion’ within an international context, we typically associate it with big brands, luxury pieces, fashion weeks, and models on catwalks. However, fashion’s international presence goes beyond this — from environmental impacts to mistreatment of workers in the global supply chains. As such, the industry has a critical role to play to help achieve the United Nation (UN)’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
The SDGs are a collection of global goals adopted by all UN Member States as “the blueprint to achieve a better and more sustainable future”. The goals address challenges such as those related to poverty, inequality, climate change, environmental degradation, peace, and justice. The fashion industry arguably impacts SDG goals of no poverty; gender equality; decent work and economic growth; sustainable development and consumption climate action; and partnership goals. The emergence of these goals has led to some companies in the fashion industry to have a more sustainable and ethical focus. However, we mustn’t forget that this is a $2.4 trillion-dollar industry that is only expected to grow at an annual rate of 1.9% over the next five years. Without adequate consideration for changes to its production processes and consumption patterns, the social and environmental impacts of the industry hinder efforts in achieving the SDGs.
Take the example of a classic outfit: jeans and a nice top. We rarely think about who made these clothes, or take a close look at the label. More often than not, we think about the price and its ‘fashionable’ aesthetics. However, if we follow the cycle of production of fast fashion, it usually starts with unfair working conditions. One key issue that is present in the industry is the wages or salaries afforded to individuals working at production sites. According to Oxfam, garment workers can earn as little as 2% of the price of clothing sold in Australia. So, although the cute outfit may seem like an incredible deal to our eyes and wallets, it’s often a different story for those on the other end of the cycle. Brands often assure that workers who make their clothing are paid the minimum legal wage, yet this may be much lower than a living wage.
The industry employs approximately 60 million people worldwide, with women making up about 80% of the supply chain. As such, SDG1: no poverty and SDG5: Gender Equality, presents the industry with an opportunity to improve the supply chain.
The behind-the-scene element of this casual and trendy outfit choice extends beyond economics. Other issues present within the industry refer to the unacceptable health and safety conditions and are related to SDG3: Good Health and Wellbeing and SDG 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth. Although the International Labor Organization (ILO) has made the principle of an 8-hour day, 48-hour week as maximum normal hours a norm, this concept is often not applied or enforced in ‘production countries’. On top of this, employees usually work in unacceptable conditions, which again hinders the achievement of the SDGs. According to Sustain Your Style, “Employees usually work with no ventilation, breathing in toxic substances, inhaling fibre dust or blasted sand in unsafe buildings. Accidents, fires, injuries, and disease are very frequent occurrences on textile production sites.” These issues were brought to the world’s attention in the collapse of the Rana Plaza, which led to the deaths of 1134 garment workers in Dhaka, Bangladesh.
However, the negative impact that the industry is producing amounts to more than issues surrounding workers. The industry presents itself as one of the worst contributors to negative environmental impacts. According to the UN Environment Programme (UNEP), “the fashion industry produces 20 per cent of global wastewater and 10 per cent of global carbon emissions – more than all international flights and maritime shipping”. It is hindering SDG13’s calls to take urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts.
Take those same pair of jeans and top we discussed earlier. They in fact, also relate to SDG6: Clean water and sanitation, and SDG14: Life below water. That one pair of jeans takes 7570 litres of water to make. And, that one shirt requires 2700 litres – the amount a person drinks in 2.5 years. But the impacts within the cycle goes beyond this. Dying textiles to a particular colour also contribute to water pollution. But again, the consequences go further. Washing the outfit can also result in microfibers and microplastics being released into our oceans. And just when you think the cycle is finally over, your cute dinner outfit will eventually contribute to the $500 billions of value wasted yearly as a result of clothing underutilisation and lack of recycling. According to UNEP, every second, the “equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned”. This is highlighting a need to take seriously SDG12: Responsible Consumption & Production. This is just the simplified story and life-cycle of how one outfit produced within the fashion industry can hinder progress towards achieving the SDGs. So just imagine the impacts our whole closets hold.
The aim of this article and the information presented isn’t meant to make you as readers feel guilty or diminish the current efforts that exist. It is instead here to bring awareness of how individual actions can either help or hinder the industry’s role in the SDGs. As much as we can blame companies for the lack of progress, we must remember that action in this sector requires it from two entry points: top-down through governments and corporations, and bottom-up – as we as consumers can make informed choices and vote with our wallets for a sustainable future. It’s precisely what SDG12: Responsible Consumption & Production asks us to do. A change in the production and consumption patterns in both avenues will undoubtedly have a domino effect and would benefit all 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
