With sectarian violence, nuclear proliferation and nationalism currently the focus of the international news cycle, the economic and cultural partnerships of states well beyond our borders are not often addressed. This is evident with the intricate and perplexing dimensions of Italian-Israeli relations. Yet, from the deep-rooted connections derived from support and friendship between both Israel and Italy rises a standoff between the Israeli Jewish Rabbinate and the Roman Jewish community over one vegetable – the humble artichoke.
The background
Since Israel’s creation in 1948, Italy has been a strong advocate of the Jewish homeland’s prominence in international affairs. Both are Mediterranean countries with common regional interests and thus have become strong allies. During the 1960s and 70s, Italy continued to have good relations with Israel in order to progress its increasingly industrialised economy. This was recently evident with Italy being a major partner in the creation of underwater pipelines connecting Europe’s energy flow to Israel’s Leviathan oil fields. President Netanyahu expressed his “deep appreciation for the state of bilateral relations” with Italy while both nations continue to strengthen relations through diplomatic exchanges and increased volumes of trade.
Culturally, Italy enjoys a very high-standing amongst Israelis who frequently visit for work, education, scientific, artistic exchanges and tourism. Comparatively, the deeply established Italian-Jewish community resides in Israel (the Italqim), promotes Italian culture in the country and further fortifies cultural partnerships.
Conflict sparks over the humble artichoke
Recently, a standoff has emerged between the well-established Roman Jewish community and the Israeli Rabbinate (the Jewish bureaucracy) regarding the prized Carciofi alla giudia, a Roman deep-fried artichoke dish which is prepared in the Jewish style. This dish proves to be a staple in every kosher restaurant across Italy. Not only served to customers, this dish is represented on logos, menus and tables. It has emerged as the symbol Roman Jewish cuisine and the broader Jewish community in Italy.
Recently, Yitzah Arazi, Israel’s Chief Rabbi, warned that artichokes are not kosher and immediately banned all imports due to their supposed uncleanliness. Arazi, who is in charge of kosher imports and arguably sets the kosher standards globally, has led many in Rome to take up metaphorical arms in defence of their signature dish.
He did not differentiate between different types of artichokes, merely arguing that the “head of the artichoke is full of worms, with no way of cleaning it”. Worms and most insects (except certain types of locusts) are not considered kosher. By implication, the artichoke cannot adhere to the strict standards of the dietary law. The Chief Rabbi claimed that the artichoke “can’t be kosher” and that “it’s not politics, it’s Jewish religious law.”
The Roman Jewish Community fights back
Firing back at the Chief Rabbi and conducting their own internal investigation, the Roman community have argued that the artichokes used in Italy (specifically the mammole, romaneschi and cimaroli) are not susceptible to worms due to the short stem and their compact nature, especially compared to the Israeli artichokes. Even if there was the presence of worms, the Carciofi recipe requires the artichoke to be cleaned thoroughly in lemon water and prepared at high temperatures. This means any insects would have no chance of survival.
Many have argued that it is unjust to deprive the community of its signature dish entrenched for nearly 600 years. Roman Jews have argued that food cannot simply lose its kosher certification while some have even outright criticised the Rabbinate for over extending its authority. Rabbi Shneor Revach, a consultant to the Rabbinate, has outlined that the influence of the of the Rabbinate on kosher food globally is “purely inspirational” and its decisions “are not binding.” Regardless, the symbolic connection between the two communities is somewhat undermined by the conflict.
Roman Jews have taken to social media as a measure of support for their integral signature dish in the form of ‘Je Suis Carciofo,’ a play on the ‘Je Suis Charlie’ movement in 2015. Rome’s Chief Rabbi, Riccardo Di Segni, and Ruth Dureghello, President of the Rome’s Jewish Community, posted a video on the group’s Facebook page of themselves washing and preparing the artichokes while wishing the community a ‘Happy Passover.’ This small act of defiance against a powerful decree from the Israeli Rabbinate remains symbolic of the Roman community’s strength in the midst of the standoff.
Conclusion: Volatility realised
Although no significant impact on the economics of the two countries will most likely emerge, the religiously cultural implications are profound and all in the name of the humble artichoke. This feud, albeit somewhat trivial and unimportant to most observers, underlines the volatility of international relations and how one minor debacle can tarnish relations between communities across the world.
